Thor at Thor USA sent me a link to photos and a description of a custom Dahon Mu xl Sport they modified to accept a Gates Carbon Belt Drive.

View the belt drive Dahon at Thor USA →

[Photo copyright Thor USA]

I believe belt drives are an excellent solution for bicycle drivetrains, and that they’ll continue to grow in popularity over the next few years. The advantages of belts are many, and the downsides few, the most obvious being the need for something other than a derailleur to change gear ratios. As internal gear hubs become more ubiquitous, I believe we’ll also see an increase in the number of bicycles spec’d with belts.

The Los Angeles Times published an article on belt drives yesterday. We’ve also written about belts, and we’ve reviewed two bicycles outfitted with belts that will be available for 2010.

The L.A. Times Article →
EcoVelo on the Gates Carbon Drive System →
EcoVelo on Five Drivetrains →
Civia Bryant Road Test →
Raleigh Alley Way Road Test →

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Kryptonite New York Noose

As a follow-up to yesterday’s post on locks, I thought I’d share a bit about our locking strategy.

We’re in somewhat of a unique situation in that we’re often riding bikes that were loaned to us by manufacturers or local dealers. It’s important that we keep the bikes in good condition and deliver them back in the same condition in which they arrived. Because we live in the suburbs, we’re often sharing bike racks with kids riding ratty BMX bikes. As you can imagine, packs of adolescent boys on bikes are not overly concerned with keeping our bikes scratch-free, so we often park off to the side of bike racks.

The question is how to lock up securely, while maintaining some distance from the pile of beat up BMX bikes in the rack? In the past, we tempted fate by using the heaviest cable we could find, looping it through both frames, then around the corner of the bike rack. So far we’ve been lucky, but using this method we were never quite comfortable leaving the bikes out of sight for any length of time. We recently upgraded the cable to a case-hardened chain and mini U-lock in combination with a cable through the wheels. Here’s how it works…

Our main lock is a Kryptonite New York Noose 1213 (the 1213 is a 4-foot hardened manganese steel chain mated to an Evolution Series 4 Disc Lock). The NY Noose is unique in that one end of the chain has a large link that can be slipped over the other end of the chain, effectively making a slip knot that can be placed around any immovable object. This frees up the remainder of the chain to be threaded through both bikes and locked to one of the frames. This design nearly doubles the length of usable chain over a standard chain without the “noose”. Before locking the free end of the chain to the bike, we slip one looped-end of a heavy-duty cable onto the chain, thread the cable through all four wheels, then slip the other looped-end onto the chain. Once the chain is locked to the second bike, all four wheels and both frames are secure, a safe distance from our little BMX brats. If only one bike is being locked, the chain is just looped around the frame and through the wheels as you’d do with any chain or cable.

This method doesn’t take into account the ease with which a saddle can be stolen (all it takes is two turns of a hex key), but in the areas where we typically park, it’s a risk we’re comfortable taking. It also doesn’t fully account for the safety of the wheels, but again, it’s a calculated risk based upon our riding habits and environs.

If we weren’t always switching up bikes and riding loaners, I’d consider setting up our personal bikes with full Pitlock systems. Here’s a description from Peter White:

Setting up a bike with Pitlocks, and locking up with a small, high-quality U-Lock, would be much cleaner and simpler than our method. The lock would be half the weight of our chain/cable combo, faster to lock-up, and easier to carry on the bike. The only downside I can see is that there’s a fairly limited range of objects to which you can attach a small U-lock.

The moral of this long-winded story is that there’s no one perfect method for locking a bike. The most important thing is to be sure the method you use is enough of a deterrent to discourage thieves in the situations in which you typically lock your bike. As various people mentioned in the comments under the prior post on locks, the conditions in which you park your bike should be carefully considered when devising a locking strategy for yourself.

This one actually works

Mike Flanigan’s recent bout of misfortune crystallized in my mind something that I’ve sort of known for a while, but I’ve failed to publicly acknowledge until now: cable locks provide a false sense of security and offer no real protection against bike theft. While cables may protect your bike against opportunists, real bike thieves have figured out that even the toughest cable lock can be disabled in mere seconds.

Back in 2006, Scott Elder did a piece for Slate in which he attempted to break a number of popular bicycle locks including a pair of cables, four U-locks, and two chains. His “bike-jacking arsenal” as he called it, included an 18-inch crowbar, 30-inch bolt cutters, a hacksaw, and a claw hammer. He declined to use power tools because, as he said, “if a criminal crew with the proper power tools and a van wants a bike, it’s as good as gone.” Here’s what Scott found:

• Cable locks are essentially useless and are easily disabled with either a bolt cutter or a hacksaw.
• All U-locks are not created equal. Smaller, more expensive U-locks are more resistant to breakage than larger, cheaper U-locks. If you’re going to use a U-lock, plan on spending $75-$100 for a good one.
• Chains offer the reach and versatility of cables, while providing protection similar to the best U-locks. The downside is that they’re expensive and heavy.

If you value your bike, go out today and purchase a high quality U-Lock or a heavy duty chain designed specifically for locking bicycles or motorcycles. And please, please don’t fool yourself into thinking a cable lock truly protects your bike.

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In this era of hi-zoot, threadless/integrated headsets and clamp-on stems, old-fashioned threaded headsets and quill stems seem almost quaint. I don’t normally think of myself as a Luddite, but I have to admit, in this case I far prefer the old to the new.

Sure, threadless systems have their advantages; the headsets are easy to adjust and the stems are stiff and strong. The downside though, is that making adjustments to bar height requires purchasing a new stem, an extender, or even a new fork. And, of course, once the steerer tube is cut, there’s no going back.

I have to wonder if the oft-touted advantages of threadless systems are actually of any use to the typical commuter or utility bicyclist. I’ve run threaded headsets for decades and I can count on one hand the number of times I’ve had to adjust a headset. Also, unless someone is racing or riding offroad in rugged conditions, how stiff does a stem need to be? Instead of worrying about stem stiffness, we transportational bicyclists might be better off heeding Sheldon Brown’s advice.

I suspect the real reason the industry has pushed to promote threadless headsets is that they reduce inventory for both shops and manufacturers. With threaded steerers, suppliers need to stock a different fork for every frame size. With threadless steerers, suppliers only need to stock one fork size, which can be cut down to the customer’s preference at the time the bike is assembled. Certainly this is a legitimate approach when looked at from a business perspective, but it offers no real benefit to the end user.

I must admit, I simply prefer the look of quill stems. To me, they’re more elegant and look less industrial than clamp-on stems. But beyond their aesthetic qualities, they also offer the tremendous advantage of being fully adjustable over a vertical range of a few inches. Proper bar height is crucial to rider comfort, and for most people, the ease with which quill stems can be adjusted is likely to outweigh any benefits associated with threadless systems.

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Bicycles with step-through frames, traditionally known in the U.S. as “women’s bikes”, are slowly gaining in popularity among people of both genders. They’re widely ridden by both men and women of all ages in Europe, and with the increasing number of gender-neutral step-throughs on the market, we’re seeing more on the roads in the U.S. The ease of mounting and dismounting step-throughs can be advantageous for a variety of reasons:

• Step-throughs enable those with physical limitations (particularly those with hip injuries) to mount and dismount without risking injury
• Step-throughs are easier to mount than diamond frames when a bike is heavily loaded and rear panniers or cargo are in the way
• Step-throughs provide clearance in front of the saddle for wearing loose clothes
• Step-throughs provide quick dismounts for riders making deliveries or running errands at multiple locations

One of my main rides is a Civia Loring with a step-through frame. The Loring is what I think of as a semi-step-through; in other words, it’s half way between a sloping top tube frame and a full step-through frame. Even so, a few people have asked me if I feel self-conscious riding it, the assumption being that it’s a “woman’s bike” and that I might somehow feel threatened by riding it. I can unequivocally say no, I don’t at all feel self-conscious about riding a step-through.

I’m curious, do EcoVelo readers (men or women) feel funny about riding a step-through? Do you see them as less serious than diamond frame bicycles? Would you feel self-conscious riding one?

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The Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute recently asked a “well-known, reputable U.S. test lab” to compare the performance of helmets from the upper and lower ends of the price range. The tests were conducted using standard ASTM/CPSC methods at both regular and low impacts. The testers found virtually no difference in performance between helmets purchased from Target and Wal-Mart priced at under $20, and those purchased from specialty retailers priced at $150 and up.

From the BHSI website:

More at BHSI →

Since we’re on the subject of internal gear hubs, I thought I’d post this video from SJS Cycles demonstrating how to change the oil in a Rohloff hub.

SJS Cycles →

One of the simplest and most effective ways to improve the comfort of almost any bicycle is to increase its tire width. Wider tires can be run at lower pressures without exposing rims to damage, providing greater suspension and absorbing road imperfections.

On a commuter bike that will be ridden on varied terrain while carrying a light load, I like at least a 32mm tire. On a utility bike used for hauling groceries, etc., tires up over 40mm wide can be a real advantage. Anything under 30mm on either of these types of bikes is a compromise in my opinion. The heavier the total load (rider plus baggage), the greater the benefit of riding wider tires. For reference, I’m currently running 37mm tires at 60 psi on my commuter.

It’s a common misconception that wider tires are slower, but this is not necessarily the case, particularly at non-racing speeds on rough roads. Bicycle Quarterly has done extensive testing on suspension losses and their conclusions show that on rough roads, up to 50% of a bicyclist’s power output can be attributed to suspension losses, and these losses are best mitigated by wide tires run at lower pressures.¹

One of the main issues with running wide tires is frame clearance. There are simply not that many road bikes on the market that provide adequate clearance for the wide tires and fenders needed for commuting and utility riding. This is one area where the industry as a whole could really improve their current offerings.

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Photo © Pereira Cycles (via Flickr)

Fillet brazing is rarely used in bicycle frame construction today. It’s a beautiful, but labor-intensive construction method that requires considerable skill on the part of the frame builder. The “fillet” itself is a layer of brass melted into the frame joint at relatively low temperature, then filed smooth. Fillet brazed frames are easily recognized by the unique appearance of one tube flowing seamlessly into the other. In my opinion, the aesthetic qualities of fillet brazed frames rival those of lugged-steel. Current builders using at least some fillet brazing in their frame construction include Pereira, Nobilette, and MAP (among others).

Recently I’ve been comparing and contrasting five drivetrains including a reversible single speed/fixed gear hub on an SE Lager; a touring triple crank with an 8-speed cassette on a Rivendell Sam Hillborne; a chain-driven Shimano Alfine 8-speed internal gear hub on a Civia Hyland; a belt-driven Shimano Alfine 8-speed internal gear hub on a Civia Bryant; and a SRAM i-Motion 9-speed internal gear hub on a Civia Loring. The following is not intended to be an exhaustive overview of the myriad drivetrains on the market; these are just my thoughts and impressions regarding these particular drivetrains.

Single Speed / Fixed Gear Drivetrain
I think the main attraction of single speed and fixed gear drivetrains is that they’re simple and bullet-proof. There’s an appeal to stripping a bike down to its bare essentials, eliminating the need for shifting and fussing with derailleur trim, etc. Eliminating a geared drivetrain is a significant weight savings as well. The obvious downside to single speed drivetrains is that you’re stuck with only one gain ratio, which may not work for people who live in hilly areas or for those who have physical limitations such as bad knees (which includes many of us over 40 who played sports or rode bikes their entire lives).

Touring Triple Drivetrain
For versatility it’s hard to beat a touring triple drivetrain. A triple provides the widest range of gears while still remaining relatively lightweight and simple to set-up and repair. With three chainrings up front and 7-10 sprockets is the rear, the potential for customization is nearly infinite within the range of the system. Disadvantages include the need for relatively high maintenance (due to exposure to the elements); a steep learning curve for beginners due to the complexity of overlapping ratios and multiple shifters, etc.; susceptibility to damage in public bike racks (again, due to exposure); and incompatibility with most chain guards.

Chain-driven Shimano Alfine 8-speed IGH
It’s no secret that I very much like the Alfine internal gear hub. A number of commuting bikes that I tested over the past year were spec’d with the Alfine including the Breezer Finesse, the Raleigh Alley Way, and the two Civias pictured here. At this point the Alfine IGH is a mature product with low failure rates and superb performance. When combined with the Rapid-Fire shifter (and assuming the cable is properly adjusted), shifts are clean, quick, and accurate. One major advantage of this and other high-quality internal gear hubs is that they can be shifted while stopped, coasting, or under power. Disadvantages include a limited gear range when compared to a touring triple; the need for either horizontal dropouts, an eccentric bottom bracket, or a chain tensioner to tension the chain; and added weight when compared to an SS or derailleur drivetrain.

Belt-driven Shimano Alfine 8-speed IGH
The only difference between a belt-driven and chain-driven Alfine IGH is the sprocket; the internal parts and shifting performance are identical. The Alfine IGH is known for being quiet and smooth, but the Gates Carbon Drive takes it to an entirely different (better) level. This combo is buttery smooth and nearly silent, almost like riding a well-oiled single speed drivetrain. If you’re already on-board regarding internal gear hubs, this is the next step that really completes the package. Disadvantages include the same as those mentioned above, as well as the need for a frame specifically designed to allow installation of a one-piece drive belt.

SRAM i-Motion 9-speed IGH
The i-Motion 9 is an internal gear hub from SRAM that competes directly with the Shimano Alfine 8. I’m really starting to enjoy this hub as I get to know it better. Besides the obvious advantage of having one extra gear, the i-Motion also covers a wider range (340% versus the Alfine’s 307%) and has more evenly spaced ratios than the Alfine. The smaller, more even steps between gears are a real advantage over the Alfine’s somewhat inconsistent spacing. The i-Motion is also easier to remove and re-install in the event of a roadside flat. Disadvantages include shifting performance that is not quite as smooth as the Alfine’s, and a limited selection of shifters, all of which are twist-type.

Let’s hear from you. What type of drivetrain are you currently running, and what would you choose if you were to replace your current drivetrain today?

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The recent arrival of a Civia Loring has once again reminded us that a Pletscher Double Kickstand mounted on an integrated kickstand plate is an immensely useful and practical bicycle accessory. Kudos to Civia for supplying a mounting plate between the chainstays on the Loring and speccing the Plestcher Double as standard equipment. We’d love to see more companies do the same!

Background
The NuVinci Continuously Variable Planetary (CVP) hub is the first and only bicycle drivetrain on the market that offers infinite gear-inch choices within an overall range of 350%. From NuVinci:

For the past couple of weeks I’ve been riding a Surly Long Haul Tucker outfitted with a NuVinci CVP hub. The LHT was set-up by The Bicycle Business in Sacramento with upright bars, MTB levers, a single chainring, and the NuVinci hub/shifter combo.

Details & Impressions
The NuVinci hub is extremely smooth and quiet, much like a high quality internal gear hub. Its gear range is also similar to internal gear hubs such as the Shimano Alfine 8 and SRAM i-Motion 9 (see chart below). The amount of resistance created by the CVP is insignificant for its intended use on commuters, cruisers, and e- bikes, though subjectively I’d say it introduces slightly more drag than the Alfine or i-Motion.

Low, Medium, High — Infinitely Variable

The twist shifter’s “gear” indicator relates drive ratios to terrain: a flat line indicates level ground (high gear-inches) and a curved line indicates hills (low gear-inches). It takes 1.25 turns of the twist shifter to move through the entire range. The long throw on the shifter is good for fine tuning the ratio, but quick shifts from high to low are difficult to execute; somewhere under one full rotation of the twist grip would probably be better for most people.

Like internal gear and single speed hubs, the NuVinci CVP requires either horizontal dropouts, sliding dropouts, or a chain tensioner (our LHT used for the test was set-up with a chain tensioner). Removing the rear wheel is relatively simple and no more difficult than removing the rear wheel on bikes set up with internal gear hubs.

It took a while to get over the old habit of spinning up before making a shift, something that’s completely unnecessary with the NuVinci. With the CVP there’s no need to hesitate making adjustments because there are actually no “shifts”. In other words, each miniscule adjustment of the shifter results in a minuscule adjustment in gear-inches. Eventually I ended up using the twist shifter almost like a throttle, constantly changing the ratio to match cadence and pedal pressure depending upon the terrain and wind direction.

Conclusion
The NuVinci CVP’s main audience is likely to be newcomers who are intimidated by triple chainrings and derailleurs, or commuters who want a bullet-proof drivetrain with an industry-best 6-year warranty. It may also be a good fit for hybrid electric bikes where the hub’s substantial 8 lb. weight would be mitigated by e-assist. Unfortunately, having 8 lbs. concentrated at the rear axle on a lightweight bicycle is enough to alter the handling and may make it a tough sell on those bikes. Even so, I think CVP is a cool technology with a future, particularly if NuVinci can get the weight down into the 4-5 lb. range and hit a price point that is on par with competing products such as the Shimano and SRAM internal gear hubs.

Pros
User-friendly for novices
Quiet and smooth
Infinite “gear” ratios within a 350% range
Ability to change ratios while stopped, coasting, or under power
Weatherproof
Six-year warranty

Cons
Heavy (approximately 8 lbs.)
Relatively expensive (approximately $450)
Long throw on twist shifter

The LHT used for this review was provided by The Bicycle Business. Stop by their shop in Sacramento to test ride the NuVinci CVP.

The Bicycle Business →
Fallbrook NuVinci →

Disclosure: The Bicycle Business is a sponsor of this website.

I receive many inquiries regarding Nitto North Road and Albatross handlebars. For the first time I have a pair of bikes in-house sporting one of each. As you can see, the bars are quite similar.

Albatross on left, North Road on right

The North Road has slightly more abrupt bends. The Albatross sweeps back ever-so-slightly more parallel with the top tube.

North Road on left, Albatross on right

The Albatross has slightly more gentle bends and looks more elegant to my eye. The North Road looks a little more business-like and utilitarian. Functionally they’re nearly identical.

Albatross (top) measures 56cm center-to-center at the widest point; North Road (bottom) measures 54cm center-to-center at the widest point

These photos were taken with a wide angle lens and show some distortion, but they’re still useful for comparison. You have to stare at the bars for a while to really see the subtle differences. Both are supremely comfortable and work exceptionally well for city riding.

Our trip to Rivendell got me thinking about frame materials and construction again. Even though I’ve owned bikes made from every commonly used frame material including aluminum alloy, carbon fiber, titanium, high tensile steel, and chromoly steel, I cut my teeth during the heyday of lugged chromoly frames and I’ve always been partial to that material and construction method. I enjoy frames that have a little flex and feel alive, and chromoly steel, with its relatively light weight and its ability to flex over-and-over again without issue, makes it a good material for my preferences and the kind of riding I do everyday. The small diameter tubes used in this type of construction also maximize tire and fender clearances, a common issue with bikes made from aluminum and carbon. Certainly other materials can be used to make wonderful bicycles and can offer performance advantages for specialized uses, but frames built with small diameter chromoly tubes and ornate lugs speak to my middle-aged-inner-bike-geek in a way carbon fiber never will. Do you have a favorite frame material? If so, place your vote and expound further in the comments below.

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I probably field more e-mail questions regarding North Road and Albatross handlebars than any other subject related to bike set-up and components. It seems there are many people interested in converting their drop- and flat-bar bikes to a more upright handlebar for commuting and urban riding. Given the number of inquiries I receive, I’m curious to know what type of handlebars people are actually using out there. Please feel free to elaborate in the comments below.

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The folks at The Bicycle Business recently conducted a test comparing the Schmidt SON dynamo hub to the newer generation Shimano hubs (and the Novatec).

Prior to this test, the only data I’ve seen on Shimano dynamo hubs was outdated and taken from a last generation NX-30. These new tests were conducted on the Alfine, and as you can see, the Shimano competes favorably with the SON. The latest Shimano DH-3N80, DH-3N72, and DH-3D72 all have the same internal parts as the Alfine, so they should perform equally well.

The tests were conducted with a powertap-equipped bike on a set of rollers. Readings were taken at 12mph and 18mph with the light on and off. The numbers on the left are watts/kph.

More at The Bicycle Business →

The longtail concept is brilliant. Anyone who, for the first time, sees a longtail such as an Xtracycle or Surly Big Dummy immediately appreciates its sublime functionality. The fact that these longer-than-normal bikes can haul large items such as lumber, furniture, or even a kid or two, is a real boon to transportational bicyclists.

We only infrequently need to carry such large items (our cargo needs mostly revolve around grocery shopping), so we have yet to purchase a longtail. And because parking space — both at home and in public spaces — is at a premium around here, we’ve gone the route of using a standard-wheelbase bike for our cargo hauling needs.

Our daily cargo hauler is a modified Surly Long Haul Trucker touring bike. The LHT, as it’s called, makes an ideal base platform for building a cargo bike because it was designed to haul a touring load. A load is a load when it comes to carrying weight on a bicycle, and the LHT is up to the task. The details that make it a good cargo hauler include:

• a robust, but relatively lightweight, chromoly steel frame
• wide range gearing with sufficiently low, lows
• robust 36-spoke wheels
• a full set of braze-ons for mounting racks and fenders, and
• sufficient clearance for high flotation tires.

While it had plenty of potential straight out of the box, the LHT required a few modifications to make it a true cargo bike. The changes we made included:

• adding heavy duty cargo racks front and rear
• replacing the stock drop handlebars with upright North Road bars to provide better leverage and more control at low speed
• replacing the outer chainring with a chainwheel disc to act as a chainguard (we find no need for a large chainring on a city bike)
• adding a dual-legged kick stand
• replacing the stock brake pads with Kool Stop salmon pads, and
• adding fenders and lights.

Robust racks are an absolute must for cargo hauling; it’s crucial that the racks are stiff enough that they don’t sway when loaded. We chose the Tubus Cargo (88 lb. capacity) for the rear, and the Pass & Stow (25 lb. capacity) for the front. Both are built with chromoly and are triangulated to provide extreme rigidity. We use a combination of various cargo nets, touring panniers, grocery panniers, and rack-specific bags to carry everything. The particular combination we choose varies depending upon our specific needs for each trip.

If our situation changes in the future and we have the need for more carrying capacity, we may yet end up with a longtail. But in our current situation, our modified LHT is ideal; it provides plenty of carrying capacity while still being compact enough to interface with public transit and city bike storage facilities.

Recently I’ve been riding the new Raleigh Alley Way outfitted with a Gates Carbon Drive and Shimano Alfine internal gear hub. I’ve never experienced such a smooth, quiet drivetrain. It feels like an over-oiled fixed-gear drivetrain, but with 8 speeds and no grease stains; completely clean, smooth, crisp, and quiet. From all reports the bugs are pretty much worked out of this system and it’s ready for prime time. My experience so far bears this out. If you have an opportunity to ride a bike with this drivetrain, definitely give it a try; you’ll be amazed by the performance.

Following are a few benefits of the Carbon Drive System:

• Durable (CDS technology has been used with motorcycles and dragsters for years)
• Special sprockets shed all types of debris including mud and snow
• 100% maintenance free and clean
• Twice the life of a bike chain
• Lighter than conventional chain drives

Gates Carbon Drive Systems →