After trying a few different camera bags and talking with a number of people who are in the know about such things, I now have a secure and convenient system for carrying my DSLR on my bike. Here’s the set-up:

The Canon XSi & 2/lens kit goes into a modified LowePro Nova 160 AW camera bag that’s overstuffed with foam to suspend the camera flight-case-style. Then the 160 AW slips into the main compartment of an Arkel Bug convertible pannier with foam inserted in the outer pocket to further protect the camera in case the bike falls on that side. The camera bag is left unzipped (but snapped closed) to enable easy access by unzipping the Arkel’s main “mushroon” zipper. Set-up in this manner, the kit is safe and sound inside multiple layers of foam and Cordura nylon, yet it takes all of 15-20 seconds to access the camera for quick snaps. As an added bonus, the Arkel converts into a backpack, enabling it to serve double-duty off the bike as a backpack-style camera bag with the 160 AW inside.

Only time will tell, but I’ve yet to come across anyone who can attribute damage done to a DSLR to road vibration. In the event of a crash, I feel reasonably confident that my set-up would provide adequate protection, though a box-style (aka “boxy”) handlebar bag suspended between drop bars would undoubtedly be more secure. I’ll report back at a later date and let you know how it goes…

[via Grist]

Here are a few winter riding tips from the Portland Office of Transportation, a place where they know a thing or two about wet road conditions.

Stay Dry and Warm
You don’t need the latest and greatest cycling gear to get around town by bicycle. A decent rain jacket and pants are your best defense. They both cut down on wind and keep you dry. If you can afford it, GoreTex or other breathable fabric will keep the rain out and keep you from feeling clammy. Fenders are also a very good investment – they keep your clothes from getting gritty and dirty. Nice extras include waterproof gloves, a snug hood or cap, a synthetic layer next to your skin to wick away moisture, and rain booties to go over your shoes.

Use Front and Rear Bicycle Lights
Lights are required by law when riding after dark. A white light visible at least 500 feet to the front, and a red light or reflector visible at least 600 feet to the rear. These lights allow other people to see you from the back, front and side. For more visibility at night wear bright clothing, an orange vest, or use reflective tape. The more reflectors whether blinking, flashing or solid, the better.

Brake Early and Often
Allow plenty of stopping distance. Gently squeeze your brakes in the rain to clear the water from you brake pads before you need to stop.

Avoid Some Painted and Steel Road Surfaces and Leaves
Steel plates, sewer covers, grates and other metal can be very slick in the rain. For paint, Portland City crews use non-slick paint and plastics for bike lanes and bicycle markings (and those blue bike lanes); however, crosswalks and other painted surfaces can be slippery. Avoid using your brakes or turning on these painted surfaces and on leaves and oily spots.

Stay Out of the Puddles
While it is tempting to splash through puddles especially if you have really good rain gear, a puddle can disguise a very deep pothole.

Slow Down on Newly Wet Roads
That first rain brings all the oil on the road to the surface making for a slippery ride. This is especially true after a long dry spell. Give yourself longer stopping distances and keep a firmer grip on your handlebars.

[via BikePortland]