Enjoy your weekend!
Chris over at Velo Orange recommends sizing* a bike based upon pubic bone height. His recommendations are not unlike Grant Petersen’s recommendations outlined on the Rivendell site. Their guidelines are both what I’d characterize as “traditional”; using either of their methods will put you on a frame slightly to dramatically larger than if you were sized at a racing-oriented shop.
Here’s Chris at V/O:
I generally recommend getting a traditionally-sized frame, one that’s larger than many race bike oriented shops would recommend. The traditionally sized frame will allow you to get the handlebars to proper height without a super-tall stem. And it will allow a reasonable stem extension that does not put too much of your weight over the front wheel. The frame will handle better, be more comfortable, and you’ll look better riding it.
And here’s Rivendell’s Grant Petersen on the same subject:
Most riders are most comfortable when the handlebar is a few centimeters higher than the saddle. Some like it four or five inches higher. Some like the look of the bar lower than the saddle, but few riders over 35 like a low bar once they’ve ridden a higher one.
To achieve that bar height, it helps to start with a bike that’s the largest practical size you can ride. We suggest you get the size that allows you to put the handlebar at least 2cm higher than the saddle. That works great for most people. You can always lower the bar if you find it’s too high, but it’s rare when that happens.
One of our past polls showed that a whopping 72% of the respondents prefer their handlebars either at or slightly above the height of the saddle. One way of making sure this is possible is by riding a sufficiently large frame as recommended above. Shops using “modern” sizing methods will disagree with these traditional methods and the resulting size recommendations, but some variation of this approach has worked well for many people, for many decades.
*”Sizing” should not be confused with “fitting”. Sizing methods are used to determine the frame size that will work best for an individual. This is only a starting point after which the more precise process of fitting takes place. Fitting is the process of adjusting the rider’s position through component selection and adjustment.
It’s been 45 days since I installed the Gates CenterTrack drivetrain on my commuter, so I figured it was time for some maintenance. Here’s the process:
- Roll the bike outside
- Hose off the belt
- Wipe off the water with a towel
- Roll the bike inside
Grand total time invested: approximately 5 minutes. A properly set-up belt drive is truly a low- to no-maintenance commuter drivetrain. Good stuff.
Shimano Alfine 11 IGH
BioLogic Joule HG Dyno Hub
Avid Elixir Discs
We’re pleased to welcome our newest sponsor, Portland Design Works (look for their banner in the sidebar). From PDW:
We fell in love with cycling long ago. Years of fixing flats at the shop, gritting it out at races, braving icy commutes and eating instant noodles led us to a conclusion: this is all we’ve ever done and all we want to do.
Urban riding is where our passion lies because of how accessible it is. It’s riding you can do in normal clothes right out your front door. So we began designing products that we as urban riders would want to use. Our goal was to make these products beautiful, simple and useful: Portland Design Works (PDW) was born.
We chose Portland as a home for the company because we figured you’d start a surf company near great waves or a wind farm on a vast plain. Likewise, we started our company in Portland because the bike-friendly culture allows tons of folks to get around easily by bike. It’s in this great urban cycling atmosphere that we design and test our products. Portland Design Works echoes the urban cycling culture we find inspiring.
Anyway, we think we’ve come up with some great stuff and hope you enjoy it.
Dan, Erik & Lars