Now That’s a Kickstand Plate

If you’re a regular, you’ve suffered through my endless griping and sniping about wimpy and non-existent kickstand plates on transpo bikes. Well, Burton over at Civia has gone and resolved the issue for good with this beauty. Read all about it here. Every transpo bike should have one of these.

16 Responses to “Now That’s a Kickstand Plate”

  • SB Tim says:

    At first I thought it was something you could somehow retrofit onto a bike without a built-in kickstand plate. In the last photos I realized it is welded on…oh well. I’ve been tossing around the idea of adding a kickstand to my Long Haul Trucker. If I do I’ll probably get the Pleischer with that chain stay molded top mount plate that you have on your bike.

  • Alan says:

    @SB Tim

    The Deluxe Top Plate certainly helps. Because it self-centers the stand, less pressure is required to hold it in place. As with any clamp-on kickstand, tighten the mounting bolt just to the point where the stand remains in place when pulled to the side, and no more. You might also place a layer of thin neoprene between the underside of the stays and the top of the kickstand to protect the frame and minimize slipping.

    Alan

  • Bob B says:

    Now if we could just get them to make a Dutch style center stand, we’d be in business. Having owned the Pletscher, I didn’t think it was tough or stable enough.

  • Alan says:

    @Bob B

    I’ve had great luck with Pletscher stands, but I bent one recently. The bike had some weight on it and I parked on an incline. The bike tumbled, and in the melee the leg on the downhill side was damaged. I was a clearly a case of user error.

    I wonder if anyone would buy a Dutch-style center stand here? I hear many complaints about the weight of the Pletscher, and it’s a lightweight in comparison.

  • Pete says:

    I wish they made a deluxe top AND bottom plate. No matter what i do, I can’t keep the kickstand from rotating when I kick it up and down, even though I tighten the bolt as hard as I dare. I tried the neoprene trick, but it actually made it worse.
    I’m thinking of cutting two grooves in the kickstand plate that match my chainstays, which should do the trick.

  • Alan says:

    @Pete

    “I wish they made a deluxe top AND bottom plate.”

    Yeah, me too!! Whaddaya say, Pletscher?

  • John Boyer says:

    Stay away from the Velo Orange Kickstand, It lasted a week at Onespeed.

  • Frits B says:

    I wonder what is so difficult in the design of kickstands and their plates. See here Henry Cutler’s latest: http://www.flickr.com/photos/henryinamsterdam/4883475108/
    Is solidity sacrificed to weight?

  • Don says:

    What about those old Curious George stands that would attach to the rear axle and pivot up and around the wheel? Is there a way to make that design work for today, to keep it away from the derailleur, maybe with some sort of attachment to the seat stays (assuming rim brakes), or in conjunction with a rack? Or maybe some crazy pivot design that comes down from the seat tube or down tube if it folds up tightly enough and the cables routed accordingly? Just curious. Clearly I’m no industrial designer, but I don’t understand why kickstand plates on a transpo bike are still such a challenge after, I would think, a century of trying.

  • Bob B says:

    Alan, I think one has to decide whether they want a fast / light (duty) commuter, or one built with systems that will last (like the Dutch). I love kickstands – spoiled by those on my 40 year old Schwinns.

  • Alan says:

    @Bob B

    Well, there’s lasting, then there’s surviving a nuclear war… ;-)

    Seriously, I think bikes like my Riv, Civia, or LHT will last; I’m not sure most people need much more durability than what a nice cromo frame with a well-designed k-stand plate will provide.

    Regards,
    Alan

  • Pete says:

    I, too, love Dutch bikes, but the single most important influence on their design is that the Netherlands is DEAD FLAT. It’s no problem at all to have a 60lb bike with chunky steel parts in that environment.
    For the rest of us, there will always be a trade-off between weight and durability. Kickstands are a tricky design because they are supposed to be cheap and light, and are too often afterthoughts. They reside in a vulnerable spot, and have to transfer a decent about of torque through a movable joint. The available space is tight, as it can’t impede on the pedals. In truth, if you were to make a really robust one, you’d probably end up designing what is essentially a second bottom bracket, which is the other spot on a bike you need to transmit lots of torque through a movable joint.
    The rear axle loop design is very good for non-derailler bikes, and could be made reasonably light. But as Don said, they really only work on non-derailler bikes. The seat and down-tube ideas are very interesting!

  • Jim says:

    I have found that a piece of thick leather from an old belt attached to the top and bottom plate with shoe goo works wonders.

  • CedarWood says:

    @ Pete

    After recently selling the car, I discovered that light bikes are great until you try hauling something heavy. It’s a battle with gravity to keep the heavy load on top of the light bike, riding or parked.

    Since Dutch-style bikes are already heavy, additional weight has little effect on keeping the rubber side down, and the kickstand is fine. These bikes can be geared down for hills, though top speed is sacrificed. Just saying… heavy frames have their uses.

  • Pete says:

    @CedarWood-
    I need a low gear just to haul MY heavy frame uphill!
    I’m not dissing heavy frames at all….

  • Fergie348 says:

    Alan, do you have any pictures of an actual Civia steel bike (like the Bryant) equipped with a double kickstand? That would be instructive, I think, as to the utility of this piece.

 
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