Gallery: Chris’ Haluzak Hybrid Race

Here’s my Hybrid Race to add to your gallery. I bought it used in spring of 2007. I didn’t do any work to it for the first year, but in 2008 I got a new rear brake, brake levers and cables, and new shifter levers and cables. I also just got a new front wheel — a Velocity Uriel from Hostel Shoppe Recumbents in WI. I found that the seat was not comfortable on my sit bones for rides longer than 10 miles, so I crafted a rectangular seat pad to give some added cushion. This works like a charm! I also just got a flag from Recumbent Cycles of Utah that is nice and bright yellow and sticks way up over the top of nearby cars.

I use this bike to commute to work 3-4 times a week. The beauty of my commute is that it is only 2.5 miles one way, so I can ride in the morning and not get sweaty. I am also provided with covered bike parking so I don’t have to worry about rain or snow (I commute year-round). Then, for the ride home, I can do a loop anywhere from 5-15 miles long that takes me either on roads with a 6 foot wide bike lane, or through several of the local parks. I find this is a great way to keep in shape while being the father to 3 kids under the age of four.

I enjoyed your blog when it was about recumbents, and I also enjoy the new focus.

Take care —Chris from DE

25 Responses to “Gallery: Chris’ Haluzak Hybrid Race”

  • Scott says:

    Hey, Chris: Love the Zak. I had a custom Horizon for a couple of years and still wish I could have kept it. I notice your Hybrid does NOT have the indirect steering w/a tie-rod. Was that standard on the Hybrid Races?

    Hmmmm…. May have to get me one of those again some day.



  • Chris from DE says:

    Howdy Scott!

    Wow, great observation! I think this may be a one-of-a-kind, actually. The guy I bought it from was in contact with Bill Haluzak over some problems with a previous bike and Bill built this one custom for him. I’ve never seen another Haluzak bike with this steering system. I’ve never ridden a Haluzak with the regular tie-rod, but I’m really happy with this setup. It does limit my turning radius, but the control is REALLY nice. I barely need to touch my handlebars and that helps for arm relaxation.

    I didn’t realize what a gem this was until I took it to my local recumbent dealer in Philly and he started to drool over it.

    Happy riding!

  • Scott says:

    Yeah, hang onto that baby. Very nice. I think you would find that the conventional tie-rod steering also has limited radius. That’s one of the aspects of the Haluzak designs, but I rarely had a problem with it. It remains one of the most comfortable bikes I’ve ever ridden. I once did a two week tour in the winter from California to Arizona–fantastic. On that tour, I towed a Burley.



  • Chris from DE says:

    Whoah, what a small world. I was just thinking whether a Burley would go well with this bike because I’d love a way to take the two older kids for rides without having to resort to a wedgie bike. I tried putting a baby seat on the rack on this bike but it became very wobbly and unstable with the extra 30-40 pounds back there. It is great to hear that you’ve had success towing a Burley. Thanks for that info!

  • Scott says:

    Yeah, Chris: You discovered the Achilles heel of the Haluzak design. But any solid two-wheeled trailer should work just fine. I can’t recommend the Burleys highly enough. Great products and nice people. Single-wheeled trailers like the BOB should be avoided because the put too much torque on the rear stays and will lead to that spooky wobble.



  • Jeremy says:

    I worked at Bicycles by Haluzak from 1996 – 1999. If you bought a bike during that period, I probably did everything except the welding and powder coating. The direct steering was never an “official” option on any bike; however, we (the welder at the time and myself) liked the feel of the direct steering better than the linkage style. We did sell a handful of bikes with direct steering. My personal Hybrid Race has a custom one-piece bar/stem that does not limit the turning radius. There is one other bike out there with a similar one-piece design. All other direct steering bikes had a stem/bar combo like yours. Scott is correct about not using a one-wheeled trailer on a Haluzak it can be dangerous. I have never heard of any problems with two-wheeled trailers though.

    It is cool to see them still out there. During the three years I was there I hand assembled every bike, test road it, tuned it, and packed it, as well as machined just about every part on the bike. These are truly hand-crafted bicycles.


  • Bruce says:

    I just bought a Zak a week ago and love it, but am interested in upgrading the old Diacomp Bulldog brakes. I’d also like to convert the USS to ASS. Oh-I’d love to get a kickstand also. Any ideas? It has a 7 speed cassette also-would love to convert it to a 9 speed. Is this possible? Any idea what year it was made? I’m hoping to get some response-been spending many hours on the web trying to ‘make contact’, to no avail.

  • Jim says:

    i have a hazulek hybrid race, dark blue, for sale with ultegra components. in average condition. what do you think a fair asking price would be? jim

  • Bruce says:

    Jim, I bought mine (not a race model) for $450, and absolutely love it. With the Ultegra components, I wouldn’t turn it loose for less than $1100. Good luck! If I hadn’t done so much upgrading on mine I’d be interested in yours.

  • john park says:

    I found this thread when googling haluzak. I have a hybrid, and am trying to figure out the chain configuration. I had it in the local bike shop, and they have both chains over the middle wheel guide. Is that right? Also when I have the bike in its lowest gear, there is quite a lot of slop in the chain. Should I take some links out, or is something else possibly going on?
    thanks for any help.

  • Jeremy Lewis says:


    I worked for Haluzak for several years (I probably built your bike). No they do not both go over the chain idler. The drive side (top of the cassette to top on the chain wheel on the cranks) – the direction with tension while pedaling – goes on the inside grove of the idler wheel and under. The NON-drive side (rear derailleur to under side of the front chain wheel) – the side without tension while pedaling – goes on the outside grove of the idler wheel and over. a properly routed chain will make a figure eight.

  • Jeremy Lewis says:

    More for John.

    Setting the chain length…

    First, you need to adjust the front mast to the proper extension for your height (X-Seam), as this will require more or less chain.

    Second, route the chain correctly (See previous e-mail).

    Third, put the chain on the smallest chainring in the front, and the smallest cassette cog in the rear. Add or remove links until there just enough tension to begin to pull on the rear derailleur. If you have to choose between a little too tight and a little too loose, go with a little too loose, as you will rarely if ever be in this gear.

    This set-up should work fine if you have the original front chainring/cassette configuration. I memory serves that would have been 22/34/46 in the front and an 11-32 (9 speed) or 12-34 (8 Speed) on the rear – don’t quote me on that:)

    If your bike has a different chainring/cassette configuration, you can double check by putting the bike in both big rings (largest in the front and back). This should put the rear derailleur at full extension, but not so tight that it is overextended (Again you should never actually find yourself in this gear). If you cannot get the bike into this gear, add one link at a time until you can.

    Good Luck

  • Robert Clark says:

    To Jeremy who worked at Haluzak. I ride a Horizon. Is it possible to use a 700c wheel on this bent or is the rear fork too small to work appropriately? Thanks…

  • Jeremy Lewis says:

    Robert Clark,

    Sorry just noticed this post – too little too late…

    The short answer is No.

    The longer answer is… It will fit, but the brake bosses will be in the wring location. That’s assuming you don’t have a really old model – one with cantilever breaks as opposed to liner-pull (V-Brakes). The other issue is that the bikes with 700C’s (the Hybrid Race) were paired with a 451 (20X 1 1/8″ wheel), as opposed to the standard 405 (20″ wheel) up front. Using a 700C would change the geometry of your bike, making it slope toward the front of the bike. The front fork used on the Hybrid Races was entirely made in-house.

    Hope this helps…

  • Geof Gee says:


    I’m in a similar boat at Bruce. I have been looking for the kickstand adapter for a while. The Bicycle Man still carries the part — — but they are defective. Pete has been unable to contact Bill to get more. Has anyone been able to contact Bill Haluzak about getting more?

  • Scott Wayland says:

    The comments to this bike live on!

    I’m getting back on the Haluzk dream. I purchased a used Horizon–in worse shape than I was led to believe and so paid too much (doh)–but I’m rebuilding it from the ground up, so all will be fine in the end. I’m having the original brake bosses and such removed and disc brake tabs installed, having the whole thing stripped and repainted! Part of getting this together is getting a kickstand. I purchased the bracket from Bicycleman with the warning it has some problems. They agreed to take it back if necessary, but I’m thinking it will be possible to modify it. I won’t know for sure until I can mess with it, which won’t be for another month–arrgghh. Once I get this baby in my mitts, I’m NEVER selling it. This will be my third Haluzak, and this one is getting all the trimmings.

    Good luck with your search. You might order the part and see what the problem is. I hope it’s nothing a little filing or cutting can’t cure.

    Go Zaks!


  • Jeremy Lewis says:

    The kickstand pictured on The Bicycleman’s website will ONLY fit Haluzaks manufactured after (about) the fall of 1997. These are the bikes that use the “Breezer” style dropouts (they have a hood). Earlier bikes have a flat rear dropout and required a different style kickstand all together. Bikes with these newer dropout should also have a serial number stamped on the end of the main frame tube. Personally, I never liked (nor used) a kickstand, nor did anyone else in the shop. We manufactured them (reluctantly) for bike shops and the public. First they were difficult to modify, and second, because the only “reasonable” location was the rear dropout, the bike was still rather unstable. This is due to the fact the entire bike’s weight was in front of the kickstand. Check your dropouts… Good luck…

    Hope this helps

  • Scott Wayland says:

    Thanks, Jeremy. I think my frame has the hood, so I should be okay. We’ll see. The frame shop has had it for weeks. Ugh. On my previous Zak, I found I needed to add a second layer to the bracket to brace it more stiffly as the unsupported unit would bend with even a moderate load. Once I backed it up with a shaped piece of aluminum “L” stock, it was pretty good, and I could park it loaded without problem.

    Here’s an address to a photo showing the loaded bike in my driveway.

    I can’t wait to get the new ride out on the road!

    I wish RANS or somebody would buy out Bill’s design and jigs and bring that baby back to market, maybe with something like the RANS “sling mesh” seat. We need another American USS bike.


  • bruce erdman says:

    I don’t know if your still following this blog but I just read the comment you made “My personal Hybrid Race has a custom one-piece bar/stem that does not limit the turning radius” and was very interested in how to achieve the no limit turning radius. I love the steering but would like the range . I have two bikes one HHR and a Leprechaun. could you send a Pict. or something ? I also agree with the Scott some one should pick up the Zak design and run with it. I would love a TI version :) Regards Bruce

  • Jeremy Lewis says:

    I’m not how to post photos to this blog. If you know how, I will post pictures of the one-piece Direct USS steering; however, there is no way to get one. We never even sold any like this. I simply made my own.

    As a side note… A Titanium Haluzak would probably have too much flex because the frame is not triangulated, but maybe not…

  • Ray Sherrod says:

    Interesting thread about the direct USS option. I have a 1996 Horizon (thanks, Jeremy!) and have always had problems with the plastic steering bushings being sticky, no matter how much or with what I lube them. I was thinking about removing some of the material from the interior of the bushings with some fine sandpaper, but any other ideas? Did Haluzak ever replace the plastic bushings with bearings or a different material, like an elastomer? -Ray

  • Bruce Knutson says:

    Ray, I had the same trouble with mine. Ifound that by using emery paper on the shaft that went through the bushing it freed it up completely, and did not have to sand or shave the bushing. I used a light grease also. Good luck.

  • Jeremy Lewis says:

    Sticky Steering Spindles:

    The steering spindle shaft was chromed for smoothness – to prevent sticking. Be careful sanding the shaft too much as you can sand away the chrome (I forget how thick the chrome was – .0875” or something…). The bushings are Teflon and they will degrade over time in sunlight, weather, etc… I have been out of the bicycle business for more than a decade (8th grade English teacher now), and I forget where we ordered the bushings from. You could try to e-mail Bill Haluzak. As I recall, they came from a company that simply made all kinds of Teflon bushings and parts.

    If you can, get new bushings…

    You could also try popping the bushings out and cleaning (and sanding if necessary) the inside of the spindle tube. The spindle tube was pre-lubed with Cosmoline (yes the stuff the military coated guns with during WWII to prevent rust). It is thick! We would slather it in the spindle tube, then press the bushings in. if we put on too much, it would simply squeeze out, and we would wipe it off. Same goes for the Steering spindle shaft – lube it up, press it in, and wipe off the excess.

    A word of warning… People have been known to distort the steering spindle shaft by over-tightening the linkage arm at the bottom. A distorted shaft will stick. Inspect your spindle to make sure this is not the case. Also, remove any lube from the bottom of the spindle, as you do not want this part to slip.

    Hope this helps…

  • Scott Wayland says:

    Those looking for kickstand mounts for the Haluzak: It turns out I have the older style non-Breezer mounts, so the Bicycle Man bracket would not work. I found, however, that the “kickstand gizmo” from Hostel Shop worked even better. The bracket is reinforced and stiffer. I had to modify it a little, but it works great! Will NOT work with the hooded dropouts, I suspect.


  • Garry says:

    I bought an Horizon USS SWB last fall and am having (per my mechanic) a steering alignment problem, i.e. after about two months my new Continental 20″ front tire is showing cord on the left (riders perspective) topside. Anyone know how to adjust the steering linkage rod, or know the specs for such an adjustment? Thanks in advance for any insights.

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